What automatically comes to mind when you think about the rione Trevi? For me, without a doubt, it is the Trevi Fountain. It is an obvious staple of Roman history, the majestic monument that the rione was named after. Although this fountain is the most well known feature of the neighborhood, there are multiple other hidden gems scattered throughout the area. Across from the fountain is the Church of Saint Vicenzo and Anastacio, where the hearts (these muscles that pump blood throughout the body are seen as relics for the Catholic Church) of over 30 popes reside. Close to the magnificent fountain, near the Piazza dei Croceferi, is the Quirinal Hill and Palace, where the president of the nation resides. Across the rione is the intersection of Quattro Fontane, where from the middle one has a view of the Quirinal Palace, the Spanish Steps, and the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore. Lastly, the Palazzo Barberini holds the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica, as well as the renowned Fountain of Trition created by Bernini.
My first journey through this neighborhood was an accident, the first two weeks that I lived in Rome I was in a constant state of wandering. I was trying to find the Pantheon, but apparently went too far. As I walked through the Piazza dei Croceferi, I heard gushing water and loud chatter. The people were giddy, it is difficult to describe the aura of enchantment that surrounded the area. I had heard the fountain described as “magical” and seen pictures, but I was still not adequately prepared to view this masterpiece. Even on a drizzly Thursday afternoon, as I walked from the right hand corner of the fountain, I saw an enormous crowd of people smiling and pointing. Most had brightly colored umbrellas and were flashing portraits in front of the fountain with their cameras. I witnessed a few people throwing coins into the fountain, which according to a legend, when done with the right hand over the left shoulder, ensures one’s return visit to Rome. Three thousand Euros worth of coins are thrown into the fountain each day, and this money is used to subsidize a supermarket for the needy.
As I approached the fountain to see it for myself, I was utterly amazed. I’m not sure what exactly makes the fountain itself so renowned, maybe the sheer size, possibly the detail and mystical nature of the figures. The water appeared unnaturally blue and spotlessly clean. It glimmered with the reflection of thousands of coins. The opaque white marble of the fountain added to the clean appearance overall. The emotion of the figures and the complexity of the composition add to the magnificence of the piece. In short, before I visited the fountain, I was skeptical that it could be described as “magical” as my friend had put it, I envisioned it to be simply an overrated symbol of the city of Rome. On my first visit, I was taken aback by the splendor and beauty of the piece.
Upon returning to the rione, this time during the early evening, I was still amazed by the brilliance of the statue. It was different at night, still the center of attention and being adored by hundreds of people, but it had a different sense of mystery. The multiple spotlights enhanced the white marble, the blue water reflected the image of the figures, and the dark night juxtaposed the gleaming light of the fountain. This time, I paid increased attention to the people who were gazing at the monument, and I listened intently. “Oh my god! This is so surreal that we are actually here,” was one of the comments I heard beside me in a deep British accent. Nearly every person was holding a camera. There were families and there were couples, and there were a few people, who like me, were at the monument alone. Even on a chilly evening in late January, the plaza in front of the fountain was on the crowded side. I cannot imagine how packed it is on a hot summer day.
I have returned to the fountain a few times since then and observed similar situations of awe and admiration. For me, the fountain maintains its majesty every time I return, but from my observations, the people who frequent the monument are not necessarily what I would consider Italian. After living in Seattle my entire life, I’m going to admit that I have never been to the top of the Space Needle. It is magnificent, it attracts tourists, but it does not represent the typical culture of Seattle at all, just as the Trevi Fountain is not a crucial part of every day Roman life. At the first glance, the rione Trevi simply seems like a tourist area, not a region rich in legitimate Italian culture. And to be honest, I have not ventured much within the neighborhood besides the vicinity directly around the fountain. But in the next few weeks I plan to explore the less well-known areas of this rione, to see what those who are in Rome for only a few days do not get the opportunity to observe.
No comments:
Post a Comment